• Hi Ranger Tl38p Manuale

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HI-RANGER T292 SERIES TELESCOPIC AERIAL DEVICE Telect HI-RANG T292 2 PG 1/13/00 12:40 PM Page 1. SPECIFICATIONS HI-RANGER T292 SERIES WORKING ENVELOPE CAPACITIES & DIMENSIONAL DATA. Appropriate operator’s manual for safe and proper operation of Terex Telelect equipment.

Hello everyone; I'm a fairly new hydraulic technician. In fact, I'm just about green on repair and troubleshoot - most of my work is on new installations and design. I'm trying to repair a friends truck (He's the Deacon at Church - uses the truck for a living). He had been blowing the high pressure line that supplies the upper remote control (bucket remote) for moving the boom. When I started off, it was obvious that the system had not been maintained since it was purchased. I started by changing/cleaning the filters; full hydraulic flush; checket main valve assembly (ended up tearing it down and cleaning all individual pieces due to varnish and 'sludge').

Then went up to the bucket and found the supply filter for the remote completely clogged - so I stripped and dipped the remote as well. Well, here's how the truck stands now; All lower controls work. The pump is no longer cavitating, and sounds a lot happier. The system is running on new/fresh fluid - with good filters.

The supply line to the remote control is free and clear of debries, and will match the PSI above in the bucket, that I set below in the supply. Now, when I cleaned the remote, I found that every supply line in the supply manifold had an orifice in it - so I cleaned each one using small files (normally used to clean blow torch tips). I filed at them so much, that I changed their size. Later realizing this, I purchased (at my cost) new orifices in a.029 size.

Initially before I installed new orifices, I was finding that all flow to the remote came down the return line (immediately). I was getting no pressure on any of the pilot lines down at the main valves when remote handle was shifted (yes, I remembered to bleed the lines of air).

I installed new orifices, and can sometimes get enough pressure on the lower boom to somewhat shift the spool - usually see about 25psi out of the handle with 1000 psi in. The reason I am feeding at 1000psi is because that was the pressure when I received the truck. (Tried lowering the pressure to 500, but no results with remote operation). After checking the remote control, one of the valve chambers on the bottom has a cracked jam nut.

I've tried to tighten it down, but the nut just spreads further apart - does anyone know the size nut and thread count required to replace this? I'm thinking by watching how the boom is moving, that as the one chamber with the cracked nut is sitting further into the housing than all the others, that the valves need to be adjusted to better seal during operation. Does this sound correct, does anyone have any other ideas? Anyone have a manual on the Hi Ranger, or a hydraulic guy/gal who is very open with help? I'd really appreciate the help, and I know Ken (the Deacon) would as well - right now his only source of income is sitting in my back yard with a busted boom; we tried operating the valves from the bottom, but it's just too clumsy for an operator who can't see what's going on above to do it safely. Chris Brunner. Cbrunner said: “ Hello everyone; I'm a fairly new hydraulic technician.

In fact, I'm just about green on repair and troubleshoot - most of my work is on new installations and design. I'm trying to repair a friends truck (He's the Deacon at Church - uses the truck for a living).

He had been blowing the high pressure line that supplies the upper remote control (bucket remote) for moving the boom. When I started off, it was obvious that the system had not been maintained since it was purchased. I started by changing/cleaning the filters; full hydraulic flush; checket main valve assembly (ended up tearing it down and cleaning all individual pieces due to varnish and 'sludge').

Then went up to the bucket and found the supply filter for the remote completely clogged - so I stripped and dipped the remote as well. Well, here's how the truck stands now; All lower controls work. The pump is no longer cavitating, and sounds a lot happier. The system is running on new/fresh fluid - with good filters. The supply line to the remote control is free and clear of debries, and will match the PSI above in the bucket, that I set below in the supply. Now, when I cleaned the remote, I found that every supply line in the supply manifold had an orifice in it - so I cleaned each one using small files (normally used to clean blow torch tips).

I filed at them so much, that I changed their size. Later realizing this, I purchased (at my cost) new orifices in a.029 size.

Initially before I installed new orifices, I was finding that all flow to the remote came down the return line (immediately). I was getting no pressure on any of the pilot lines down at the main valves when remote handle was shifted (yes, I remembered to bleed the lines of air). I installed new orifices, and can sometimes get enough pressure on the lower boom to somewhat shift the spool - usually see about 25psi out of the handle with 1000 psi in. The reason I am feeding at 1000psi is because that was the pressure when I received the truck. (Tried lowering the pressure to 500, but no results with remote operation).

After checking the remote control, one of the valve chambers on the bottom has a cracked jam nut. I've tried to tighten it down, but the nut just spreads further apart - does anyone know the size nut and thread count required to replace this?

I'm thinking by watching how the boom is moving, that as the one chamber with the cracked nut is sitting further into the housing than all the others, that the valves need to be adjusted to better seal during operation. Does this sound correct, does anyone have any other ideas?

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Anyone have a manual on the Hi Ranger, or a hydraulic guy/gal who is very open with help? I'd really appreciate the help, and I know Ken (the Deacon) would as well - right now his only source of income is sitting in my back yard with a busted boom; we tried operating the valves from the bottom, but it's just too clumsy for an operator who can't see what's going on above to do it safely. Chris Brunner. Fluid and Nut Due to the quantity of other leaks that exist in the system, we just went with normal Hydraulic oil (I believe it's either SAE 20 or 40).

We are going to switch him over to full synthetic once we get the system leaks stopped. I was reading the Hi Ranger pages, and see that it really wants synthetic - but I hate to waste the money for synthetic since I'd just be pouring it down the recycling drain with all the leaks. I'll try and get a photo of the nut directly, right now all I have is a photo of the lower side of the remote so I would know which tubes go where for reinstall. Cbrunner said: “ Due to the quantity of other leaks that exist in the system, we just went with normal Hydraulic oil (I believe it's either SAE 20 or 40). We are going to switch him over to full synthetic once we get the system leaks stopped. I was reading the Hi Ranger pages, and see that it really wants synthetic - but I hate to waste the money for synthetic since I'd just be pouring it down the recycling drain with all the leaks. I'll try and get a photo of the nut directly, right now all I have is a photo of the lower side of the remote so I would know which tubes go where for reinstall.

ChrisMaybe all the other leaks is causing air bubbles and foaming which will definitely cause poor performance. Does your truck have a nitrogen tank? If its low on nitrogen it wont operate the unloader valve?

Cbrunner said: “ Due to the quantity of other leaks that exist in the system, we just went with normal Hydraulic oil (I believe it's either SAE 20 or 40). We are going to switch him over to full synthetic once we get the system leaks stopped. I was reading the Hi Ranger pages, and see that it really wants synthetic - but I hate to waste the money for synthetic since I'd just be pouring it down the recycling drain with all the leaks. I'll try and get a photo of the nut directly, right now all I have is a photo of the lower side of the remote so I would know which tubes go where for reinstall. Chrisi'm not a hydraulic tech, just my 2 cents here. 1: high pressure hose blowing = beat hose, pressure set to high, a blockage, or bypass not working.

Hi Ranger Tl38p Manuale

2: how do you trouble shoot something that has leaks, fix the leaks first!!! 3: run the correct fluid, a lot of things will not operate correctly, and or damage the system, if you use the wrong stuff. I don't know if i would want to fly a bucket with a leaking system, thank god for locking pistons. ( as long as they aren't leaking) excuse me for being a little anal about this, BUT I'M NOT FLYING ANYTHING THAT LEAKS!!!!!!

Call me silly, but thats how it is. Well, we got it working in the past few days. The blown hose was a build up of pressure. The build up of pressure was due to the upper remote filter, orifices, pilot valves, and lower return line self adjusting orifice being clogged, blocked, or otherwise restricted. The leaks were not as bad as I made them seem (I guess).

It was really only seepage from around some of the hose fittings and around the orbital motor seams. After tightening and checking all the hoses, we have a few on this list for replacement in the very near and some in the immediate future. I was finally able to set the remote valves.

That was a chore and a half (talk about leaking oil! The pilot valves set like any other, it was just a matter of getting seven gauges to use for the process. Next step is to repair the unloading valve - then we should be ready to fill with the proper synthetic.

I'm wondering what the SSU rating of the 20w oil we're using now is at 80 deg - need to do some research on the oil we have now to find out. Ropensaddle said: “ Maybe all the other leaks is causing air bubbles and foaming which will definitely cause poor performance. Does your truck have a nitrogen tank? If its low on nitrogen it wont operate the unloader valve?I started a new thread but didnt get any replies on it so thought I would come back to this post. My husband has a linesman 2 and it has the nitrogen tank on it and he was wanting to know how to refill it and if anyone knows how much is suppose to be in it.

Its not on the tank for some reason. His fluid is getting really hot.

If anyone has a manual of can help we would appreciate it!